Mark Faucet and Shane Johnson from Riders Lounge break down the top five snowboard setup mistakes they see constantly in the shop. Whether you just bought your first setup or you've been riding for years, these common binding and stance issues could be killing your control and comfort on the mountain.
"Tall kids with crazy narrow stances: they have no ability to torque the board. That's going to mess up your hips, your knees, so many issues will come with that."
Mistake #1: Wrong Stance Width for Your Body
The most common issue Faucet sees is stance width that doesn't match your body proportions. Tall riders with wide hips and long legs end up running insanely narrow stances, which robs them of any ability to torque the board effectively. Others go way too wide, which creates its own set of biomechanical problems.
Their shop has developed a simple rule of thumb: measure shoulder-to-shoulder width and add an inch to an inch and a half. This gives you that baseline to flare out enough for proper actuation and get those knees working correctly. For reference, Shane usually runs around 21 inches, which he calls his groomer stance.
"We're constantly changing our stances. I don't have a set 22 that I always go to. But for the average person starting, that baseline measurement really helps."
A good reputable shop will typically dial you in, but if you don't have access to that, measuring at home is easy. Stand with your shoulders back, have someone measure shoulder-to-shoulder, add an inch to an inch and a half, and you've got your starting point. Just remember that even perfect measurements won't help if your boots and bindings aren't compatible.
Mistake #2: Incorrect Binding Centering on the Board
This is closely related to stance width: where you actually center that stance on the board. Graphics on most boards have decent reference marks these days, but a lot of people end up riding with way more tail than nose, sometimes an inch and a half more tail hanging out.
The problem is massive when it comes to powder riding. That forward position puts too much weight on the nose, creating leg burn and making you feel like you're constantly fighting to stay up. As Johnson emphasizes, when in doubt, move back.
"For the average rider getting used to a new board, set yourself back a little bit. It takes weight off that nose, nothing's going to be hooky, and you're going to have more control over the tail. Control the tail, control your destiny."
For experienced riders on twin boards, riding square in the middle is perfectly acceptable. But for the average rider learning their new setup, shifting back helps you find where the sidecut grabs best. Always measure center of binding to center of binding when checking your setup.
Mistake #3: Toe-Heel Centering Issues
This adjustment involves moving your binding laterally between the edges, not forward or back. It's about getting equal overhang between your toes and heels so you can roll the board equally in both directions. Different binding systems handle this differently: Burton uses an adjustable highback for most models, while others use an adjustable heel cup or disc positioning.
"I will take a quarter inch too narrow or too wide before I'll mess up this adjustment. A day ruiner: as soon as I start dragging one more than the other."
Test this with your boot actually in the binding. Take a screwdriver or similar tool and check your overhang from the bottom. Most people will have some overhang, which is fine, but you want it equal on both sides. Without proper heel-toe centering, you'll constantly catch on one edge and feel intimidated when you need to roll onto the opposite edge. This is especially important when you're breaking in new snowboard boots that haven't fully molded to your feet yet.
Mistake #4: Ankle Strap Positioning
The ankle strap is designed in an infinity or figure-eight shape specifically to give you lateral support and forward flex without a pinch point. But it has to be positioned in the middle of where your boot flexes to work correctly.
Many people complain their straps feel too stiff, but when Johnson checks, they've only got the strap at the thickest part where the ratchet is: not at the designed flex zone. This is a super common issue that kills comfort and response.
"It's got to be right in the middle of where your boot flexes. You want to have that ratchet in a spot where you have some movability: not bottomed out at two clicks, not maxed out at the limit."
Every binding has some sort of ankle strap adjustability, whether it's tool-less, a screw, or snap-in adjustment. The same principle applies to your toe strap: you want it centered so you get proper leverage when you need to tighten down.
Mistake #5: Highback Settings
Highbacks have become controversial in some circles, but they're crucial for proper heel turn engagement. Forward lean and rotatable highbacks need to be dialed to match your boot's spine angle and riding style.
More forward lean gives you earlier response into heel turns and more support as you come back. But too much creates leg cramps and makes it tough to stand up tall on cat tracks. The key is matching your boot's forward lean angle and then adjusting from there.
"If you find that your boot's forward lean is a certain angle and the highback's not engaging at all, that's your first indication to give yourself a bit more. Your boot's already in that place: your knees are already bent like that."
For aggressive angles over about 15 degrees, you need to rotate your highback so it's parallel with the board's edge. This prevents the highback from angling back toward your back leg instead of supporting your proper heel turn angle.
Buying the Wrong Binding for Your Ability
Johnson mentions this as a bonus mistake: buying bindings that are inappropriate for your actual riding ability. Everyone wants Travis Rice's binding or the Union Atlas, but not everyone needs that level of stiffness and response.
"Really just be honest with yourself, your abilities, and what you're buying. If you're grabbing a Union Atlas and you've been snowboarding for half a season, might not be the right move."
Riding style matters hugely. Some amazing pro riders ride soft and surfy bindings because that matches their approach. Others want super stiff and responsive. A reputable shop should guide you toward what's appropriate for your actual ability and goals, not just what looks cool or what pros ride. Whether you're looking at freestyle bindings, all-mountain boards, or backcountry setups, there's gear that matches your actual needs.
The Takeaway
Most of these mistakes come down to two things: taking the time to properly set up your bindings and being honest about your ability when selecting gear. A good shop can handle both, but if you're setting up at home, these five areas are where most people go wrong.
The most critical is toe-heel centering: get that wrong and your day is ruined. Stance width and centering on the board are almost as important. Take the time to measure and adjust rather than just throwing your bindings on and hoping for the best.
These setup mistakes can ruin an otherwise perfect day on the mountain. The good news is they're all fixable, and many of them just require taking the time to properly adjust your bindings. Whether you're riding a Jones board, any freeride setup, or your first all-mountain stick, proper setup makes all the difference.
Content courtesy of our friends at The Riders Lounge
